Fur Info: Fur Info

Chinchilla Fur Coats : How are they made

Mon, 18 Jul 2022 15:47:45 +0000

Prestigious , luxurious , classy and delicate , a chinchilla fur coat is deemed as a piece of art in the fur making world. Its supple texture ,exotic looks and ultra low weight have no match.However the thin and delicate skin , combined with the premium price per pelt , dictate that only the most skilled and experienced fur masters handle them. A skilled fur maker is capable of handling several fur types such as mink , fox , beaver ,lynx ,coyoteand so on. Yet , the norm in chinchilla fur making is that the fur master is dedicated exclusively to this fine fur type during his whole career .

Everything starts with a bundle of premium chinchilla pelts purchased in a fur auction such as Kopenhagen or NAFA. Each bundle consists of pelts sharing common characteristics like size , color and hair quality. The fur master inspects each skin individually for imperfections and substandard skins are discarded. The pattern of the final product determines the size of chinchilla skins to be used. A diagonal pattern requires longer skins compared to a rectangle pattern. The chinchilla skins are layered on the various pieces of the paper pattern to ensure that their size is capable of meeting the requirements of the design. A seamless ,aesthetically perfect look is the objective.

After the sorting phase is finished , it is followed by the excision process of parts such as paws and tails that are not typically used in a finished coat. Those parts are not thrown away though. They are used in accessories such as keychains or sectional fur throws. Nothing is wasted. Most chinchilla fur coats are made with rectangle shaped cuts. Each skin is cut in half , parallel to its long side and the two rectangle pieces are sewn“butock to buttock” . Before starting a second row , a½ inch cotton interface stripe is sewn between them. This technique creates a “hill and valley” three dimensional look which experience, designers and consumers find more desirable.

The chinchilla fur rows are sewn so that they adequately cover each part of the paper pattern . Then they are sprayed with water which makes them more elastic and pliable , so that they can be stapled on paper or wooden boards. This is called “blocking” and aims to achieve plastic paramorphosis which is a fancy way to say that the shape and size remains stable after the processing is done. The wooden boards with the blocked chinchilla rows are exposed to the sun and are left to dry. The staples are removed and the rows are ready for the next step.

The chinchilla fur pieces are layered with the skin facing the furrier and the pattern pieces are layered on them so that they can be cut with precision to the paper pattern lines.

Chinchilla skins are delicate. A thin but durable adhesive fabric is applied in order to reinforce them and prevent tears . The various pieces such as the collar , sleeves, back and front are ready to be sewn together. The assembled coat is inspected for tears and imperfections and when quality standards are met it is handed to the seamstress.

An experienced seamstress will add wool interfaceto the open edges which enhances shape definition. The seamstress will add pockets , hooks and loops, buttons and drawstrings depending on the design requirements.

The chinchilla coat undergoes a finishing stage which involves steaming and glazing. This removes excess fur and restores hair volume. After a final inspection is done the product is available for sale.

What is a fully let out fur coat?

Sun, 26 Jan 2020 21:55:45 +0000

Fully let out technique is about cutting a pelt into thin diagonal strips and then stitching them back together to create a longer and more narrow strip that runs the full length of the coat. This results in more uniformity regarding density and enhanced "swinging motion" of the garment since each stitch acts as a small joint. Furthermore, if needed, thin leather stripes can be inserted between the fur strips to reduce density and volume of fur, especially in very thick fur types and this is called feathering. In mink fur, letting out is commonly used to produce long fur coats that look seamless as opposed to skin to skin fur stitching.

Step 1: The mink pelt is sprayed with water so that i becomes more elastic.

Step 2: Imperfections are cut out

Step 3: The mink fur pelt is stapled on a block board

Step 4: The pelt is cut into halves and fed to the shredder

Step 5: Coming out of the shredder into thin diagonal stripes

Step 6: The diagonal stripes are stitched back together in a "arrow point" shape. This results in elongation and narrowing of the pelt.

From then on standard fur making procedure is followed untill the let out pelts are made into a ready to wear mink fur coat.

The let out stithing technique is shown in the video below:

Can I wear My Fur Coat in The Rain?

Sun, 26 Jan 2020 21:52:55 +0000

Can I Wear My Fur Coat In The Rain ?

The short answer is yes you can wear any fur coat both in rain and snow but you should avoid getting it soaked .

Fur Is designed by Nature to Repel Water

Fur pelts have guard hair and underfur. The guardhair are the longest hair and are responsible for repelling efficiently water and wind . Underfur is shorter in length and usually higher in density and serves as a heat insulator (that is why sheared or plucked fur coats are still very warm). Shearing and plucking are methods of reducing the volume of a fur coat for aesthetic reasons .

Not All Fur Coats Repel Rain Water The Same

This is largely dependent by the keratin structure of each fur type. Keratin is a protein that is insoluble to water and covers the outer part of the hair making it waterproof. It is also responsible for the sheen of a fur pelt . Some fur types contain more keratin in their hair such as beaver , mink and sable. Remember beaver is an aquatic species. Chinchilla fur coats have a smaller percentage of keratin and although unimaginably supple, they are less water repellent. While a beaver fur coat can take up a greater hit of rain without getting soaked a sheared beaver fur coat's ability is compromised due to the lack of keratin rich guardhair.

The Recovery Of a Soaked Fur Coat Depends on the Skin Type

Preventing a fur coat from getting soaked is one thing and recovery from such an event is another. While all furs can handle rain water in reasonable amounts , not all will tolerate getting soaked in water. This has to do with how elastic and waterproof the skin is and also the processing in the tannery .Lynx , mink , sable and persian lamb are very elastic and waterproof. As fur makers we experience this by first hand during the blocking process (stretching and stapling the pelts on wooden boards so that they fit the design pattern). 'Blocking" involves spraying the skin on the hairless side , so that they become more pliable and the fur types mentioned above are extremely water repellent (the water forms speheres on the surface just like a freshly waxed car). The tanning process involves mechanical and chemical agents that remove the excess fat . A well tanned fur pelt retains its elasticity ,its capability of repelling water , it will shed less (thus keeping the guardhair longer, decades literally) and of course will be in pristine condition for several years . Fur coats such as chinchilla and fox have more delicate skins and require extra care when it comes to getting soaked. I repeat that they can handle and repel water but it is not advisable to be worn when it is raining cats and dogs . Also artifically colored furs are more sensitive and harder to recover if they get soaked.

What Do I Do If My Fur Coat Gets Soaked ?

First of all , you should always give your fur coat a firm shake if it gets wet. This will remove the excess of water over it and the your beloved coat will be fine. Also note that in the beginning of the wearing season (fall or winter depending on your location) it is most likely that you had your coat stored. Inevitably in several cases the fur hair has been pressed down or even "messed" if it was not stored carefully . Make sure before wearing it to have it "refreshed". By refreshing , i mean having it steamed at a fur cleaning service or a professional furrier. This will not only restore the original beauty of the garment but it will also arrange the hair direction in an organised manner that forms a "tile" roof (yes just like the tiles orientation in your roof , the fur pelts hair have got a grain direction and in most cases they are stitched in a way that the grain heads downwards). If you do not have access to a fur cleaning service then a water spray bottle and a fur comb will do the trick. Just remember to dry it up with a hair dryer that is capable of producing room temperature air . Hot air is not good for your fur.

If you find that your garment has absorbed a bit of water you should let it dry naturally in a well ventilated space ,away from the sun or any heat source.

If it is soaked then you should look immediately for a professional furrier . In severe cases where an extended amount of time is anticipated before being able to get the soaked coat to the furrier , a seamstress might save the day. Request to have the inner lining unstitched to the part of the fur that is soaked so that it can be exposed to air and dry faster.

What a Furrier Can Do in Case my Fur Coat is Soaked in Water ?

Well here comes the cavalry to save the day. In several cases the lining will be partially removed so that the wet skin dries faster . In severe cases the part of the fur that cannot be recovered will be cut off and replaced with another . In other cases special hydrating oils may be applied . The sooner you can have your fur inspected the better.

Which Fur Types Are Most Suitable for Rainy Climates And Which Are Less ?

Here is a list of fur types recommended for rainy weather

-Mink fur

-Lynx Fur

-Sable Fur

-Beaver Fur (unsheared-unplucked)

-Coyote fur

-Raccoon fur

-Persian lamb fur

And a list of fur types not recommended to be used in rainy weather

-Chinchilla Fur

-Fox fur

-Rabbit Fur

So... Is Rain Really an Issue When Deciding to Buy a Fur Coat ?

If you plan to wear your beloved fur on a frequent basis then my personal opinion is to go for mink that is a champion of durability or a sheared beaver that is the king of comfort and does not break the bank.

The fur industry has evolved and while in the past a fur garment was meant to be worn only in special occassions now there are several fur product levels , reasonably priced that allow for daily use.

Of course the high end furs are luxury items and should be considered as such. A chinchilla fur coat is sensitive and expensive . So is a Ferrari . This does not mean that you leave it hanging inside a garage !

Go ahead and enjoy the ultimate luxury and the unique feel and look that this magic natural product has to offer !

If you have any questions feel free to contact us

Mink Fur Skins - Male and Female

Thu, 01 Jan 1970 00:00:00 +0000

Postby skandinavikfur » Sun Aug 07, 2016 6:30 am

Mink fur coats are the most popular and widely sold furs . No matter how the fashion trends are mink is loved for its unique properties such as looks , versatility , endurance , texture and so much more. Mink coats can be made either by female or male skins. To the inexperience buyer the difference may not be discernible but nonetheless they do have differences between them that show in the final product.

Male mink fur skins

The mink male skins are in average larger compared to the female ones . In the grading system they usually start from 1o and reach up to 4o . Their guardhair is thick and dense and so is their underfur. This makes them heavier thanthe females and warmer as well . Skinwise they are stiffer and thicker. Their hair look is not a shiny as the females and it is more coarse. In terms of pricing , coats made of male mink skins cost less because the skins themselves cost less and because of their larger size , 10-20% less skins are required for a garment. They are popular in colder climates and for men's fur coats. Their lifespan is greater -they can last for a lifetime and are safer option as a second hand purchase.

Female mink fur skins.

Their size is smaller and the hair is softer , silkier with excellent shine. The skin is not as thick as the males and is more . These properties make them more poular in general for women's clothing . Their softness and flexibility produces garments that fit and drape excellent , are lighter and the hair sheen is eye catching. They come at higher prices at auctions and the fur coats require more of them because of their smaller size .

Rex Rabbit vs Chinchilla Fur Guide- How to tell the difference

Thu, 01 Jan 1970 00:00:00 +0000

Postby skandinavikfur » Sun Aug 07, 2016 6:29 am

One of the most common questions i get asked by buyers is how you distinguish between rex rabbit chinchilla colored fur and genuine chinchilla fur . This can be an easy task, especially if you are purchasing from a brick and mortar store. However in the online shopping world this can be tricky- the artificial coloring techniques have improved and one can see some very good rex chinchilla imitations out there.

But before i go to the tips that will help you distinguish between the two fur types, let me tell you a few things about each fur type.

Chinchilla fur comes from rodents whose natural habitat is the Andes in south america. The name comes from the Chinchas , native people that used the fur of the animal for clothing . The fur was introduced to Europe by the Spaniards and was highly apreciated by the royalty of the time for its softness and looks. Chinchilla is probably the softest of all furs and the second in hair density -sea otter comes first- with 20,000 hairs per square cm . One unique feature is that each follicle hosts 50-60 hairs . The fur is so soft that you can actually dip your finger 2-3 cm deep and still feel nothing. Chinchillas are quiet small and several skins are required to make a fur coat . A typical 23" long coat with a minimalistic stand up collar would take 30 skins in average whereas a mink fur coat of the same size would require 15 skins. Chinchilla fur skins are very thin and delicate and require a lot of care .

Rex fur comes from a rabbit breed that originated in France in the early 20s . They have short guardhair that do not protrude and very thick underfur. They have a velvety texture and even look . These two properties have made them very popular in the fur industry and fur garments made of them are considered high quality -unlike the common rabbit .Their average size 25-30% larger than the chinchillas. In the market they are most commonly found in chinchilla imitation color. A 23" long jacket would require 18-20 skins in average.

So after this dull , encyclopedic info here are a few tips that will help you distinguish the differences -especially when shopping online

Curvy surface- A genuine chinchilla fur coat has always a wavy surface with the protruding part in the middle of each skin . Rex rabbit fur coats are always flat.
And here is why : Genuine chinchilla skins are really small and along with the dorsal area which is the thickest part , furriers used the flanks and the abdominal area which are thinner . This way you get the curvy look with protruding central skin parts and concave peripheral parts on each skin at the stitching lines . Rex rabbit fur skins are larger and less pricey and there is no need to use the flanks . Only the dorsal area is used and thus the flat even look . This difference is very characteristic and after reading the above you should be able to tell the difference very easily.

2. Count the number of skins

Count from collar seam to the point that the waist of the model ends and her ... butt begins . The length in almost all models will be 23"(60 cm). It is suggested to do this from a rear view photo. In a genuine chinchilla coat you should count 8-9 skins or 7-8 stitching lines at this length . A rex rabbit coat will have 5-6 skins or 4-6 stiching lines. This is not universal but it applies in most cases and of course the skins must be stitched in a horizontal pattern.

3. Coloring pattern

The genuine chinchilla have a dark central area , surrounded by a soft gray area and white lines on the sides. The rex chinchilla color imitation come in many types . If you do not see this pattern then it likely not real chinchilla . However there are some very good imitations. Yet in rex chinchilla fur the coloring pattern tends to be unnatural and very geometric whereas the natural genuine chinchilla does not have strict geometrical patterns. If you see continuous , straigth and rectangular patterns then it is most probably rex rabbit.

Now regarding price i find it needless to say that genuine chinchilla cosst a few thousands $ whereas rex rabbit costs a few hundred. As for texture , i will not elaborate on this because one has to touch both furs once and then be able to tell the difference.

Mink Breeding

Thu, 01 Jan 1970 00:00:00 +0000

Postby skandinavikfur » Sat Aug 06, 2016 2:25 am

Despite the fact that the most important activities which aim on providing the mink with a relaxed and stress-free environment, pure water, well balanced diets, and overall good health, do not change, many other things alter depending on the season, and on the mink's life cycle.

There are four main seasons on a mink farm. Here is the first one.

Breeding season (December - March)

At this time of the year mink farmers aim on bringing mink (both male and female) into excellent breeding condition. The first steps focus on adjusting the nutrition and feeding program so that they get rid of extra weight and stimulate vigorous exercise. This is extremely important for effective reproduction and a successful whelp.

There are farmers that carry out blood tests for Aleutian disease and perform vaccinations during this time. It is the period that mink are more susceptible to diseases caused by bacteria and viruses. Poor health status at this time will most definitely lead to a low quality skin harvest. The guard hair will not reach optimum length and the underfur density will not meet the required standards.

In order to prepare for breeding, mink are placed in the barns depending on the breeding methods that the farm has adopted. Most of the time this involves tiny groups of male mink surrounded by larger groups of female mink. Most farmers choose to breed a ratio of 6-7 females for every male. This strategy facilitates the transfer of females into the males' cages more and reduces the required labour. Females arealways positioned into the males' cages for reproduction - never the opposite, since it is highly important for the males to be on their very own area.

The act of breeding stimulates the females to ovulate. The same thing happens with domestic cats but different from other domestic animals. One week after the first pairing, the ovaries have produced new ova and the females are ready for a new breeding cycle. Therefore, most farmers practise a breeding program of Day 1 and Day 7.A significant number of ranchers also mate the day after Day 7 (Day 8), since this method will often lead to the fertilization of extra ova.

Modern ranchers always keep breeding records. Mating time, genetics of parents and grandparents, success rates and fur quality are thoroughly recorded. This data are analysed and used as points of reference for improvement and corrections.

Fox Fur Coats Made of Half Skins - A guide to a unique and beautiful fox fur style

Thu, 01 Jan 1970 00:00:00 +0000

Postby skandinavikfur » Fri Aug 05, 2016 1:20 pm

Fox fur is the second most popular fur type when it comes to fur garments and the most widely used fur fabric in the general clothing industry. Most fur lovers are acquainted very well with garments made of full skins which are great but there is another fur making style and technique which is not widely known to the public- the fox fur garments made of half skins.

What is a half skin fox fur coat ? Since a picture is a thousand words , here are some examples

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The full skin fox coats are made by rectangular pieces cut of the dorsal area of the skin and stitched together. No doubt this is the best part with the highest density and most even look . What is left from the original skin can be utuilized in the half skin technique to produce gorgeous looking garments at a fraction of the cost . Most certainly the final product will be more lightweight than a full skin coat but still very warm since fur is fur . A blue fox fur coat at knee length would weigh in average 5 pounds while a half skin fur coat of the same style would weigh 3.5 pounds for example.

Half skin fur coats consist of three different parts .

the upper part is made of the front paws which have rich underfur and short hair
the middle part is made of the abdominal area of the skin which has long guardhair and limited undefur
the lower part is made of the "buttocks of the skin" which have thick unnderfur and guardhair-between the thick triangular shaped "buttocks" the furrier inserts flat triangular shaped rear paws - the result is a very fine looking bottom sweep that is the trademark of the coats made of fox half skins
Below you may see photos of the plates that artisans use to manufacture this coats.

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Sectional Fox Fur Buying Guide

Thu, 01 Jan 1970 00:00:00 +0000

Postby skandinavikfur » Fri Aug 05, 2016 1:18 pm

Fox fur is one of the most popular fur type in the world . This guide is about fox fur garments made of any part of the skin except for the dorsal area. Fur coats and jackets made of this parts are generally known as sectional . They are not as expensive as the ones made of full skins , neither as even looking . Yet fur is an exceptional matterial with an inherent exotic and wild beauty and sectional fur coats are still looking awesome and can be just as warm-not to mention that in the early days of modern fur making the sections were thrown away as waist. Sectional fur making has thrived in Greece where some of the best artisans with decades of experience have developed stitching techniques that produce excellent pieces .

Starting from the top , there are the sectional fur jackets made of the head of the skin. It is usually stiched in squares. The front part of the square has rich underfur and short guardhair . The rear part is opposite.

cons: rather stiff and heavy coats-they grow softer as they mature like leather jackets

pros: great durability

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Sectional fur coats made of bellies are the most commonly used . They are most popular as vests and stitched in irregular pattern. They have long guardhair and almost no underfur.

cons:irregular pattern

pros: lightweight, smooth texture , excellent draping

http://cdn6.bigcommerce.com/s-lbc7kek/p ... 1426361986

Sectional fur coats made of paws which are stitched in chevron pattern. The fox fur paws have rich and short underfur.

cons: weight , stiffness-they grow softer as they mature like leather jackets

pros: unique looks , can be sheared because of their underfur

http://cdn6.bigcommerce.com/s-lbc7kek/p ... 1426362189

Halfskin fur coats are a great choice and categorised as intermediate quality among sectional and full skin fox fur coats.
http://cdn6.bigcommerce.com/s-lbc7kek/p ... 1426362359
Fox buttocks are extremely thick and fluffy , unsuitable for garments but very good for fox trim , collars and accessories like hand bags , pon-pon etc .

http://cdn6.bigcommerce.com/s-lbc7kek/p ... 1426362668

Fur Myths BUSTED

Thu, 01 Jan 1970 00:00:00 +0000

There are many myths surrounding the fur trade, so we have come up with “mythbusters” infographics, to help answer some of the most common questions about the industry and how it works.

Click the link below to view the myths.

Source : http://www.wearefur.com/about-fur/fur-facts/myth-buster

Fur is Beautiful

Thu, 01 Jan 1970 00:00:00 +0000

The clichéd image of an older woman wearing a full-on traditional mink coat is nowadays a rarity. Although this is still the fashion in certain circles, the fur being seen on the catwalks shows the material in a very different light. New techniques see fur being mixed with other materials such as leather, silk and wool, being cut, woven, and knitted, being dyed incredibly bright colours – the possibilities with fur are endless. There has also been a rise in more lightweight and wearable pieces – fur trims and accessories are growing more popular and are an easy way for those with limited funds to add some fur to their wardrobe.

And fur fashion is not just for the females. Designers are sending men down runways in a wide range of fur styles: everything from the modern bomber with fur to fur lapels on a range of garments – both highly wearable – as well as fur manbags and double-breasted reefer jackets in fur/fabric combinations.

Fur is far from being out-dated – it is contemporary, cutting edge, versatile and is being worn more than ever before. This could be why so many designers are adding fur to their collections – with an estimated 73% of A/W 2015/16 shows at the four major fashion weeks showing fur.

Source: http://www.wearefur.com/about-fur/why-choose-fur/fur-is-beautiful

Why Choose Fur

Thu, 01 Jan 1970 00:00:00 +0000

Not only does fur have a rich heritage, it is extremely cutting edge. Fur is no longer just your grandmother’s old coat, designers are constantly innovating the material using a variety of techniques and combining textures to create fun, interesting and wearable garments.

Every piece of fur is different; you will never find two identical garments. They continue to be made by hand using craftsmanship and manufacturing skills that are passed down through the generations.

It is a durable, natural and sustainable material. Fur is without doubt the oldest fabric known to man and is one of nature’s most enduring products. It comes from sustainable sources – nowadays the majority of fur is from SPECIALTY FARMS and around 15% is from abundant WILD POPULATIONS.

Whether you choose to eat meat, eggs or dairy produce, use medicines tested on animals or wear leather, fur, silk or wool you will want to be assured that animals have been treated humanely. The fur trade invests $millions in animal welfare research, CERTIFICATION PROGRAMMES and animal husbandry technology in addition to supporting local, regional, national and international ANIMAL WELFARE legislation.

The fur trade believes in your right to choose for yourself – read IFF CEO Mark Oaten’s blog on the Huffington Post about Freedom of Choice.

Source: http://www.wearefur.com/why-choose-fur